Welcome back, 2wheeler ladies and gents! Another day, more stories, and quite the experience set for the memories album add-on. We are jumping into day 5 of our adventure. Like the great Marvin Gaye said… “Let’s get it on!”
Waking up on the ferry is always a delight… It’s that moment when you’re not quite sure where you are, and you’re jolted awake either by the loudspeaker politely reminding you to leave the dormitory or, in case you’ve missed that gentle nudge, there’s level two: a good old-fashioned knock on the door. I’m really not keen on experiencing level three of this wake-up call!
Well, it’s time to get moving because it’s late, and we’re finally in Albania! Or at least, at Albania’s front gate.
At Albania’s Front Gate
We started the day with that distinct African border sensation: an hour and a half to disembark and clear customs.
I once heard someone say, “Not all borders are created equal”. Point taken on those wise words, indeed. But here’s the kicker: that someone was none other than my own mind, conjured up to help me cope with the motorcycle traveler’s arch-nemesis – the mind-numbing bureaucracy.
As soon as we passed, there were Albanian insurances to arrange, SIM cards to buy, and money to exchange. It’s a one-stop shop! In my case, I just wanted to hit the road and travel along the coast from Vlore to Sarande, as today’s goal is to spend the night in Meteora, Greece.
A quick reminder, the main focus of this trip is Turkey, and we still don’t have complete control over our time, so we’re managing our vacation days as we go.
A Taste of Albania
What can I say about the Albanian Coast? Speechless is the best word to describe it… I stopped countless times to look, take photos, look again, film, and look once more. The mountain roads, many of them real “serpents,” the turquoise and green waters on one side… Kilometers and kilometers of this play between beaches, terraces, and cafes perched on the cliffs. I really want to come back and dedicate more time to Albania! Rui has done an amazing job on the Albania Travel Guide, so if you want to know more about this gem of a country, just click on the link, or jump to his and Liliana’s journey through the Balkans.
Around lunchtime, I stopped at a roadside café/restaurant and decided to try something typical. I went in, talked to a man who was painting some benches on the terrace, and asked if it was possible to eat. He said the kitchen wasn’t open yet, as the person in charge hadn’t arrived, but I could order a drink. At the same time, he asked me if I liked eggs and cheese. I said yes, obviously, and off he went. He put down the paint can and grabbed a frying pan.
Two fried eggs in olive oil, goat cheese with herbs and olive oil, and a few slices of cucumber, which I never quite understood the purpose of. What more could I ask? A delight!
Crossing Borders: Albania to Greece
Back on the road towards Greece, we encounter another border. The number of lined-up cars waiting to cross promised a long wait time. Yet, after 40 minutes of waiting, an Albanian policeman came to me and told me to go ahead, to move to the front of the line (I was the only motorcycle there, and nobody was very eager to let me through). He was also a motorcyclist, so he facilitated my passage. On the Greek side, there was still at least another hour or hour and a half of waiting until the border… He again shortened my wait, and I finally made it to the Greek border.
When it was my turn for inspection, I mentioned I was Portuguese. “Portugálio?” “Yes…” “You can go through. My son studied for six months in Portugal.” Well, thank you, indeed!
Greek Enduro Madness 2024 – “sponsored by Google“
Continuing towards Meteora, I found myself on the highway, with tolls and everything, something I very rarely do. So, I tried to avoid the tolls, so I enlisted the help of online maps. And there I found myself, doing some serious enduro and hard off-road riding because Mr. Google Maps here in Greece insists that it’s either the highway or enduro riding for you.
It was just me and a tortoise on that road!
Meteora: A Glimpse of the Divine
After several attempts, always with the same outcome, (although I was having fun) I ended up taking the highway because I wanted to arrive in Meteora with enough time to visit the Holy Monastery of the Great Meteoron and the Monastery of Varlaam… Indescribable!
Surprises Along the Way
With a scenery like this, you can imagine my surprise when an elderly Malaysian lady asked me to take pictures with her. People never cease to amaze me, and yet there is more…
I took the opportunity to camp at a campsite in the center of Meteora with a view of the monasteries. Here, I was welcomed with beer, a bottle of water, and a great 18 euro camp fee. What more can you ask?
Tomorrow, we continue through Greece towards Istanbul, our point of entry into Turkey!
See you soon!
